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Thursday, October 3, 2019

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Meanwhile, my dining partner opted for the popular house-made ricotta cavatelli tossed with pork sausage and swaddled in earthy black truffles and umami-rich grana padano. The sausage comes from Bestia's own house-cured meats selection which hangs for all to see in a glassed refrigerator. This might Choctaw look like something out of Fear Factor to the faint of heart and visually conveys the nose-to-tail philosophy of this restaurant. Combined, the elements in this pasta dish melt in your mouth, so it's easy to see why this remains one of Bestia's signature dishes. The bittersweet budino tart was our dessert highlight, a creamy velvety filling inside of a chocolate crumb crust topped with shaved sea salt that delivers a sweet-salty pleasure at the end of an extraordinary meal. The plating is reminiscent of Massimo Bottura's Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart dessert with its spaccato design and aesthetic. Bestia was a game-changer when it opened in the Arts District in 2012 and remains ever-so-popular with a reservation list normally full up to two months in advance. It's located in a retrofitted coal warehouse that has quite literally helped the neighborhood around it come alive, showcasing an industrial superintendents interior with accents of tile, wood, brick, marble, and selenium steel contrasted with a soft color scheme and comfortable booths. Everything feels very homey yet modern and the ambiance is fun yet refined, just like the food. The drinks at Bestia impress with a bar program first created by the James Beard-nominated Julian Cox. Getting most of his inspiration from chefs, you can see both the connection as well as the contrast between the dishes at Bestia and the drinks they pair with We stuck with refreshing and spritzy options during our meal rooted in strawberry and cucumber, which offset the bold flavors of the cuisine. Service on my most recent visit by Shalimar was stellar from beginning to end. He knew the dishes inside and out, offering tidbits about Bestia's cuisine which is influenced by several of Italy's regions, the melting-pot culture of LA, and even the Middle East where owner-chefs and husband-and-wife team Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis have family. This is one of the hardest reservations in town so plan accordingly, unless you're in the habit of eating dinner at 11:45 p.m. The menu has evolved slightly over the years but largely remains the same, which for creatures of habit like myself means that I can return and find my favorite dishes available to enjoy over and over again. In other words, they don't Mohammedanize fix what's not broken, they just make sure it continues to be excellent.


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